My current skincare routine

Oh dear, it has been a minute since I did one of these.

I felt inspired to do one of these because well…I might be onto something that is helping my skin around.

As a disclaimer: NONE of these products are anyhow sponsored. I purchased everything on my own. If I provide links it is because a) I want to give you – the reader – a chance to explore the product, b) I have purchased from X website before and find their service to be top notch.

Now that is aside, I want to give a quick background on my skin for those of you who don’t know: I underwent 4 accutane cycles, antibiotics, more pills, more creams, I have hyperkeratosis in all my body, dermatitis and some eczema. I also have combo skin that can quickly become oily on a summer / warm day or it can quickly become dry on a very cold / windy day.

Things I know work excellent for me:

  • Retin-A (Tretinoin) in 0,05% to 0,1%
  • Most types of acids (lactic, glycolic, malic, azelaic, phytic, lactobionic, gluconolactone, salicylic (less so))
  • Some types of facial oils
  • TCA Peels (currently have done a 24%, my skin recovered completely in 6 days)

I had been dabbling around with many products for a year because heck…after moving to the U.S I had a major breakout and being in the land of all things cosmetics…I felt the urge to try and test out anything and everything.

That being said, I did not get my acne under that *great* of control. So I went back to square one into what I know that works for me. Now my skin seems to be calm and glowy ❤ ❤ ❤

So lo and behold, my current skincare routine and what I plan on adding:

CLEANSERS:

LA MER CLEANSING OIL

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This is very soothing, feels very luxurious. Would I repurchase? For the price, no. I think there are better options out there.

HYLAMIDE HIGH EFFICIENCY FACE CLEANSER 

 

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This is quite lovely. I absolutely enjoy it and it does an amazing job at dissolving even the heaviest make up.

NIOD LOW VISCOSITY CLEANING ESTHER

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This is a very *very* soothing cleanser. It is an unusual texture and property. If you want to know more about it, check my post HERE. And check out their website HERE.

I plan on repurchasing this one. Absolutely stunning product and the glow I get from cleansing with this is *insane* ^_^

DERMALOGICA AGE SMART SKIN RESURFACING CLEANSER

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Lactic acid based exfoliating cleanser. Very lush, very luxurious and very thick milk. It feels wonderful to wash with this and it isn’t striping at all.

CLINIQUE TAKE THE DAY OFF WIPES:

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Best.Wipes.Ever. I have very sensitive eyes and these ones do not burn or sting and actually get all of the make up off. ALL. Even super resistant. I adooooooooooore these wipes. I also use them to clean my neck without irritating the eczema. ❤ LOOOOVES.

 

Other loves:

  • Dermalogica precleanse (have gone through bottles and bottles of this)
  • Kate Sommerville Detox facial cleanser (awesome for brightening oily / congested / acne prone skin)

I plan on adding soon Biologique Reserche Lait VIP O2. I tried it last week and fell in love with it. It is a cross between a milky cleanser and Dermalogica age smart cleanser (it exfoliates slightly).

 

TONERS / MISTS:

BIOLOGIQUE RESERCHE P50 / P50 1970

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I was introduced to this about 9 years ago. I loved it, stopped using due to pricing. Now I am back on it…adore it…helps control my hyperkeratosis and acne. No redness / tingling / irritation for me, but I know this is heavy duty so be careful. In the U.S we have the 1970 version which contains phenol. I am not yet sure which one I prefer, so I’ll let you know in a few months time. I purchased mine HERE. Again, superb customer service, fast shipping and awesome sample policy.

Cheaper alternative you can try Skinmedica Rejuvenative Toner (check it out HERE). This one is also pretty hardcore, so be careful. You might think its soft because it contains only ‘fruit acids’, but it will make your skin red and flake if you aren’t progressively working up on it.

DERMALOGICA ANTIOXIDANT HYDRAMIST

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A staple for years. Been using this for approx. 8 years. I adore it. It is radiance and hydration in a bottle. Fabulous for acneic skin, refreshes and removes any ‘tightness’. Contains vitamins, peptides and hydration factors. I have tried so many mists and nothing comes close to this one.

MASKS:

DERMALOGICA MULTIVITAMIN MASK

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Absolute staple. Again, many tubes of this has been used. Some periods I use it daily. Helps with eczema, dermatitis, redness, inflammation and acne. Makes my skin soothed, glowy and hydrated. Oh and plump. Overall…rejuvenation in a bottle. Can also be used around the eyes and on top of the lips as well as an overnight treatment. This is packed in vitamins and hydrating factors. The scent is also very soothing.

GLAMGLOW FLASHMUD

 

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When I need an absolute glow. If you look for a radioactive glow (special event, date night etc…) this will deliver. Redness: gone. Dullnes: gone. Sallowness: gone.

 

GLAMGLOW SUPERMUD

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When my skin breaks out. When it is really persistent with acne. When there is nothing that seems to work. When I need to clear the acne inflammation within 30 min. When my acne just keeps expanding and I need to set limits. This gets the job done and it gets it done well. Nothing else has cleared my acne as fast as this. Bear in mind, it is not **only** this that will clear it out. But it helps tremedously. I have gone through jars and jars of this. It is my trusted buddy.

 

BIOLOGIQUE RESERCHE MASQUE VIVIANT **still in testing phase**

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For dullness / congestion / oiliness / acne. Lot of people have bashed its scent comparing it to a dead racoon. I am not sure from where the hatred to the scent comes from. To me it smells very pleasant. Its first ingredient is yeast (live) so it obviously will smell like fresh bakers yeast (I used to bake with that when I was a kid) and I adore that smell. But if you are sensitive to it, you might not like it. I personally enjoyed it.

It is a very soothing mask and recommended to use almost daily. I shall start to do so and will report back on how it has helped 🙂

I purchased mine HERE. Awesome customer service, super helpful, super fast shipping and generous with samples.

Honorable mentions:

  • Skinceuticals Clarifying Clay mask (good alternative to glamglow supermud, less tingle, does not dry down completely, bit more hydrating)
  • NIOD Flavanone Mud (good anti-inflammatory)
  • Sensai cellular performance mask (good hydration)
  • Shiseido retinol eye mask
  • Exuviance eye mask

What I am going to try: Biologique Reserche Masque VIP O2.

TREATMENTS:

NIOD CAIS 1%

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I don’t always use it, but I use this after I get a TCA peel to make the new skin recover better and way more resilient. Truly works. I do not see a difference when I use it regularly (months after months) but only when I incorporate it around medium to deep peels. Check it out HERE.

RETIN-A 0.05%-0.1%

Pretty much self explanatory. Staple. Have been using it for almost a decade on and off.

SUNDAY RILEY GOOD GENES

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Had many deluxe samples, loved it some years ago but then did not continue with it due to pricing. Always tried to find something comparable and cheaper. Did not. Alas, I am back on this. It is absolutely and utterly stunning. Controls my acne, the inflammation and redness. Plus gives me a beautiful glow (which mine can go away very quickly because I produce an excess of skin which makes my skin become very dull fast (like within a day)).

MOISTURIZERS / OILS:

BIOLOGIQUE RESERCHE CREME DERMOPURIFIANTE **testing phase**

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I have received generous samples from Shop Rescue Spa (official stockist of Biologique Reserche) after being recommended. So I shall test this for a few weeks. Smells like fresh yeast from bakery. Dries down to a natural matte finish.

REN BIO-RETINOID OIL

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An absolute staple. I adore it. It is a game changer for skincare. I stopped using it a while ago, now I wonder why I did that. My skin looks so much plumper, brighter and calm in the mornings. I usually use this one on top of my Retin-A at night. And no, it doesn’t technically contain retinol, but oils that have Vitamin-A. But between that and retinoic acid (the active component of retinol, or let’s say your skin has to convert retinol to retinoic acid for it to be usable), it is a big difference. HUGE difference. But I truly love this oil. It is soothing.

NIOD FRACTIONATED EYE CONTOUR:

 

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I don’t know what it is about this, but it is one of the few eye treatments that does not give me eye allergy. I have pretty bad eye problems (atopic keratoconjunctivitis and severe eye dryness non-responsive to treatments) so I have to be careful of my daily products. This one causes me no adverse effects and actually helps me tremendously with the flakiness and darkness around my eyes. Have been using it for about 6 months. Totally a staple. Check it out HERE.

 

What I shall add soon:

  • Zelens Vitamin D: It is supposedly a great treatment oil for acneic skin that have lot of inflammation and allergic/reactive skins. Will let you know how this one goes when I have tried it for a while.

 

SUNSCREENS:

These are my daily sunscreens. I shall do a separate post for holiday sunscreens and more heavy duty ones.

SKINMEDICA TOTAL DEFENSE + REPAIR SPF 50+ WATER RESISTANT

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I want to say it is probably one of the highest UVA protection you will find in the US (Europe is still champion in this area with more advanced filters, i.e La Roche posay Anthelios XL and ISDIN Foto range). But this gets the job done. It also protects from Infrared radiation. It is a blend of Zinc and chemical sunscreen. It is a thick cream that does not leave any oily residue, blends beautifully, fills in the pores, evens out the skin tone and makes the make up last WAY longer. Does not irritate my acne and I can see an improvement in overall skin quality when using this. It is a staple of mine. Check it out HERE

DERMALOGICA AGE SMART

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Staple, staple, staple. This is a good sunscreen for Autum / Winter / Spring. City sunscreen. Office sunscreen. This is my moisturizer + sunscreen. It is stunning. Gorgeous. Soothes the skin, reduces redness, calms my acne and gives a gorgeous glow. As a bonus: does not make my face oilier. Hubby also loves it ❤

It has vitamins, peptides and hydrating factors. Downside for those of you with severe chemical sunscreen sensitivity, this might not work for you: it is only chemical spf.

 

NECK TREATMENTS:

My neck is very sensitive, having post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from my allergic skin but also bad hyperkeratosis. It is a fine balance what I use. Here I share more:

I wash it twice a day (once with water and cleanser and the other with wipes). Then I apply a pigmentation serum and a soothing oil. During daytime I make sure I have a heavy duty sunscreen on, but mostly mineral ones work.

WHITERX SERUM

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Gets pigmentation removed FAST. Non irritating. Awesome. It is based on stabilized Glutathione. Has some AHA’s as well but not significant amount to ‘burn’ or sting.

THE ORDINARY ROSEHIP OIL

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Possibly the cheapest and BEST rosehip oil you’ll ever use. It comes in a UV-protected bottle to prevent UV-light induced degradation. Awesome stuff. Soothes my neck and gives a beautiful glow. Check it out HERE

NIOD NECK ELASTICITY CATALYST

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When my eczema flares up…this never fails to help. Another bonus is that it truly helps with any wrinkles and elasticity issues (if you suffer from eczema / inflammation, you’ll notice that the skin can become less elastic with time).

BIODERMA PHOTODERM MINERAL SPF 50+ (PPD/UVA 26)

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Wonderful sunscreen for very sensitive skins. I use this on my face after TCA peels and on my neck regularly. It has one of the highest UVA for an all-mineral sunscreen. (If you want higher UVA protection, you will need some chemical sunscreens). It is very white-blueish cast, but it matches my skintone so I adore it. Doubles up as a ‘foundation’ for my neck and chest ^_^. You can find more info HERE

How is all combined?

AM: Quick routine

  1. CLEANSE: La Mer Cleanser / Dermalogica age smart cleanser (depending how my skin looks / feels. If it is too congested then Dermalogica)
  2. ACID TONE: Biologique Reserche P50
  3. MIST TONE: Dermalogica Antioxidant Hydramist
  4. TREAT: Sunday Riley Good Genes
  5. HYDRATE / SPF: Dermalogica Dynamic skin recovery spf 50 (On days that my skin is normal, combination) / Skinmedica Spf 50 (on days when my skin is a bit congested or inflammed with acne)

AM: Pampering routine

  1. CLEANSE: La Mer Cleanser + Dermalogica age smart cleanser
  2. MASK: Glamglow Supermud on my jawline if I have acne + Dermalogica multivitamin recovery mask elsewhere // Or Biologique Reserche Masque Viviant everywhere if no major breakout
  3. ACID + MIST TONE
  4. TREAT: Sunday Riley Good Genes + NIOD eye treatment
  5. NECK TREATMENT: Oil + Spf
  6. HYDRATE / SPF: Dermalogica Dynamic skin recovery spf 50 (On days that my skin is normal, combination) / Skinmedica Spf 50 (on days when my skin is a bit congested or inflammed with acne)

PM: Quick routine

  1. CLEANSE: NIOD Cleanser or Hylamide cleanser + Clinique take the day off wipes.
  2. ACID TONE: Biologique Reserche P50
  3. MIST TONE: Dermalogica Antioxidant Hydramist
  4. NECK TREATMENT: Serum + oil or cream
  5. TREAT: Retin-A + Ren Bio Oil / Retin-A + Biologique reserche Creme Dermopurifiant (when my skin is oilier than normal) ++ NIOD eye treatment

I hope this gives you an idea. I adjust my routine according to my skin. I have several patterns: Oily/Congested/Breaking Out / very inflammed acne or Combo/clear skin. I adjust based on how it is on either end of spectrum. If I have very irritated or dry skin, I’ll skip retin-a and only use the oil.

Have a wonderful weekend :* :*

 

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